Time for my annual rant on how to cook a Thanksgiving Turkey. Every year, thousands of lovely birds are done a HUGE disservice by being prepped and cooked poorly.
For those of you who are unsure, or making plans to listen to Lynn Rosetto Kaspar’s “Turkey
Confidential,” or those who simply make dried, shoe leather turkey year after year: Listen up. Here’s how do to perfect turkey, along with some of the whys.
Step #1: Choose a free-range or natural turkey.
Try organic. Even better, get a heritage bird. Here’s one cut of meat where I guarantee you will taste the difference. And you won’t have to worry about bad bugs from bad processing.
If you’re reading this at the last minute, file this advice for next year. The meat does make a difference, and no matter what a smoking deal those $8 turkeys at Safeway are, they taste like $8 birds. Here’s why: most of those birds are injected so that they will be “tender and moist,” but the injection carries with it a taste and must do something gross to the meat. Let’s not think about it. Avoid at all costs. Unless, of course, you are planning a party with turkey sandwiches only (the kind with cranberry mayo and maybe stuffing on dinner roles)–then, I say go for it. Cheap, great way to entertain.
You can use the “juices run clear when the thigh is poked” method, or the “leg shaking method,” if you’re comfortable with those. If not, get an insta-read thermometer (not any other kind), and check the thigh temperature and the internal temperature if you have actually cooked dressing in the turkey. The internal temp should be 165 and the thigh should be 180 when done. I take the bird out about 5-10 degrees before this temp because it will continue to cook out of the oven. If the breast has not browned, you can take the tin foil off for the last 15 minutes and turn the oven up. And BTW–all those lovely chocolately roasted turkeys on Bon Appetit and other magazines have motor oil rubbed on them!
This step is important and not to be over looked. Put the bird on a platter and tent with foil. This step allows the juices to reabsorb and makes the meat more tender. In the meantime, you can make the gravy from drippings and cook the stuffing if you didn’t put it in the bird.
How to make yummy, not gummy gravy:
Carefully drain about half the fat from the roasting pan and then put the pan on a burner (or two) on the stove. Turn the heat to medium high. When the drippings begin to stick, deglaze with cup white wine. Stir with a wooden spoon, loosening whatever is stuck to the pan. Turn down to medium and let reduce until thick. This step concentrates the flavors and starts to build the gravy. Then add 2 cups stock, bring to a simmer, and let reduce again until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon and stay there when you swipe your finger across it (your finger will leave a trail that stays in place). Trust me, this gravy is much more flavorful than the kind made with milk and a roux.
So get out the sharpener and make sure your carver is ready to do the job.